What Is a Silencer and How Do They Work with Machine Guns and Other Firearms.

A silencer, or more properly a suppressor, is any device that attaches to the end of a firearm barrel - pistol, rifle or even a machine gun. The purpose of a silencer is to reduce the noise and flash that a projectile makes when a gun is fired. The main type of suppressor is a tube with threads that screw onto the end of a specially threaded barrel. As the projectile passes through the suppressor, the hot gases behind it are stripped away and absorbed inside the unit. Some of the heat and energy of the bullet are also absorbed so that when it exits the end of the suppressor, the normal sound associated with the gun powder ignition is removed from the sound signature. The more effective the suppressor, the better the sound suppression. The other component to the sound of a weapon firing is the projectile breaking the sound barrier. These are known as super-sonic loads. Suppressors will function with super-sonic ammunition but their effectiveness is best with sub-sonic rounds. Standard 9 mm and .223 (5.56) ammunition are inherently super-sonic. Sub-sonic 9 mm loads are available. We recommend using 147 grain or higher ball ammo. NATO 5.56 rounds travel at 3200 feet/second and are not available in sub-sonic loads. Some .40 S&W and all standard .45 caliber rounds are inherently sub-sonic.

Here at UFT, we have found that AWC suppressors best meet the requirement for outstanding performance, sound suppression and exacting manufacturing standards. Additionally, AWC suppressors reduce recoil and actually improve accuracy of the weapon. AWC suppressors have been used world wide by military, special forces and other law enforcement tactical units. The same AWC suppressors are now offered to the private sector for purchase. All NFA rules apply including submitting a Form 4 to the ATF with fingerprint cards, 2 passport sized photographs and a one time $200 Federal Transfer Tax fee.

 

Your Colt M16, MP5 or FAL Machine Gun Needs a Tactical Light?

You pick one out that seems right. It is the newer LED or even HID flashlight technology. Throw some batteries in. Presto! You think your machine gun is set to go, Wrong. Batteries, you need to know about batteries and how they relate to flashlights of all sorts. This is the first in a series on flashlight or search light batteries. We can get your tactical light operating properly, right from the start.

We will talk about primary cells (regular batteries) verses rechargeable cells (rechargeable batteries.) You need to know how to properly recharge those rechargeable cells also. Which battery is the best for your particular tactical light need. One size clearly does not fit all. There are many types of light: incandescent, LED, HID, what is the difference? These are some of the topics we will discuss in future blogs.

The first questions is whether to use rechargeable batteries or not. Batteries that cannot be recharged are called primary batteries. If the battery can be charged and used again it is a rechargeable battery. The latter are best used in devices used regularly, even daily, recharged and then used again.

Rechargeable batteries generally have a poor shelf life. New alkaline batteries may last for many years at room temperature. They can retain over 90 percent of their original charge state after as much as 3 or 4 years. Most (but not all) rechargeable cells lose 90 percent of their charge after a single year, many lose charge faster than that. Our recommendation is that you use primary cell batteries if the device you use is sitting around most of the time.

 

What Type of Battery Did Your Dealers Recommend For Your Tactical Light?

We have all ruined something when an alkaline battery leaked. Sound familiar? One of the reasons an alkaline battery leaks is because batteries of different ages are often used in the same tactical light together. A new battery put into a light with a well used battery is doomed to leak if left on the shelf for too long a time. Never mix new and used batteries in a single device as a flashlight, LED light or any other battery dependent device. Also, time in a device seems to be a factor. The poorly matched cells may not leak if you are using the light often and then switch to new batteries before long. Or a set of brand new batteries that may not leak if stored on the shelf - may leak if kept in a light.

We would recommend using Lithium primary batteries instead of alkaline cells. In high drain devices as a tactical light, regular flashlight or LED light, these lithium cells last much longer. Whereas your flashlight lasts an hour on one set of alkaline batteries, you would get 3 or 4 hours of use with primary (non-rechargeable) lithium batteries. They cost twice as much but last 3 or 4 times longer so they are less expensive in the long run.

More importantly, lithium batteries seem not to leak. So you are not going to ruin as many devices that are sitting around on the shelf for any length of time. Oh, one more thing - the shelf life of lithium batteries is longer than alkaline cells. Alkaline batteries may last 3 or 4 years in storage, but lithium batteries can last as long as 10 to 14 years, Wow.

In the next of the Battery Series, we will discuss battery size, usage and voltages.

 

Not All AA Batteries are the Same for Your Tactical Machine Gun Light.

With your dealers assistance you have invested in a quality machine gun and tactical light to go with it. It should not stop there. The batteries that you can put in your tactical LED light are not all the same.

The biggest mistake is to use rechargeable batteries when the device was designed for your average 1.5 volt alkaline battery. If your light was designed for one AA alkaline battery then the desired voltage range is 1.5 volts with new batteries and around 1.1 volts when the battery is about worn out. Primary, non-rechargeable lithium batteries have around the same voltage range but they last 3 to 4 times longer, as we discussed in a previous article.

Rechargeable NiCad or nickel cadmium batteries will not work. A fully charged cell will only put out 1.2 volts at the most. More importantly they die suddenly when they reach 1.0 volt. The light output will be dimmer from the start and they will not last as long. In general, the alkaline battery will outlast a rechargeable NiCad three fold. Lithium primary batteries will outlast a NiCad battery nine times longer!

AA batteries are clearly not all the same. We have learned that NiCad AA batteries are generally NOT useful when AA alkaline batteries are specified.  What about other AA sized batteries? There are rechargeable lithium batteries that are slightly larger than your basic AA alkaline battery. They often fit in the same devices. BUT, they are rated at 3.7 volts each, not 1.5 volts. If you were to use one of these 3.7 volt cells in a light rated specifically for 1.5 volt batteries you will burn out the light, or worse.  A fully charged lithium battery rated at 3.7 volts can actually be as high as 4.2 volts.

If your LED or HID searchlight is designed for rechargeable batteries then others issues are important. We will be discussing this later on.

The moral of the story is: Use the Exact battery size and type as specified by your device, light or otherwise.

 

So your Dealer or Sales person talked you into a rechargeable light. Now what?

Let’s say you purchased a 4 cell LED tactical light that requires 4 (four) 18650 type batteries. These are rechargeable lithium cells that are 3.7 volts each. DO NOT MIX THESE with similarly sized AA batteries that are 1.5 volts. Lights have exploded when different batteries have been mixed.

Here is the potential problem: In this situation it is possible to put in 4  DIFFERENT battery types at once. You can use one of the specified 18650 rechargeable 3.7 volt cells, and accidentally add an alkaline 1.5 volt battery, a nickel cadmium 1.2 volt rechargeable cell and a host of others all about the same physical shape and size. Mixing batteries of different types as these can cause an explosion.

It gets worse. Each different type of rechargeable battery requires a specific and different type of charger. Often, batteries and chargers are sold in a single package. You cannot mix and match chargers and batteries. Only use the charger that was designed for or came with your rechargeable batteries. Here is one example: A NiCad AA cell of 1.2 volts needs a charger that can continuously charge the cell even after it is full. They can take a continuous charge for years, but it must be reduced after the battery is fully charged. The charger should do this automatically.

A similar sized 18650 lithium battery is 3.7 volts nominal but is fully charged at 4.2 volts. Here the battery charger must then completely turn off altogether. These rechargeable lithium batteries cannot take a continuous charge. When they are full the charger must be shut off, otherwise an explosion or fire could result. These special lithium battery chargers do this automatically but older chargers may not do this correctly. Batteries have exploded and can present a potential danger to you or others.

Battery explosions and/or fires are fairly common, with using rechargeable batteries, as people are not following EXACT battery charging instructions. A word to the wise, if you are not sure, go to a flashlight or battery forum and look it up or post the question. Alternatively, go back to the battery store where you made your purchase and ask the sales people for help. Better safe than sorry. Put on the right light and use the right batteries for your tactical MP5 or M16.